[u2edub]

I did nord locks and 228 (with the old axle nuts) a couple of weeks ago and all is well 👍🏼

Thanks for the info! I think that's what I'm going to do.

 

[FeMaster]

Just talked to my mechanic about how we'll approach this, and he found another TSB I haven't seen referenced here. It's 03-008-24 issued August 28, 2024. Bottom line, it says new torque for front half shaft hub nut is now 228 ft lbs. I'm still going to use the Nord Lock washers, but found the new spec interesting.

Just for reference to those that may come across this thread later on, BE SURE TO READ THE BULLETIN if you have a 2017 MY. Earlier 2017 vans CAN NOT have their nuts torqued to the new specification or you risk destroying your axle shafts!

CAUTION!!
Do NOT torque front halfshaft hub nuts for vehicles built on or before the build date of June 24, 2017
(MDH 0624XX) to the new torque specification, as they have a halfshaft stem that is not strong enough
to support this higher torque specification. Failure to do so may cause halfshaft damage.

 

[rixbulk]

I just wanted to say that I felt the same clicking sound and decided to investigate. I originally didn't hear the noise and feel the sensation after they had replaced my transmission for another different issue. After about 10,000 miles with the new transmission I started feeling that weird sensation every time I would switch between decelerating and accelerating. It's like a backlash or driveline shunt feeling. I thought the noise had come from the drivers side, but found out the passenger side cv axle nut was on the loose side. I think it had loosened to about 60 ft lb of torque on the nut, so I tightened it up to whatever is slightly over 160 ft lbs because that's the highest my torque wrench could go. I went for a drive around the block and that acceleration/deceleration sort of backlash or empty engagement direction switch went away.

Takeaway notes are that it doesn't take long for the nut to loosen. You do need to check both sides. Also, previously I rented a gas Pacifica, and it had the same feeling too upon acceleration/deceleration. I suspect this problem gets worse over mileage, and many people just don't realize the signs of this happening.

 

[DIYGuy]

FYI to all, you can buy an electronic 1/2” drive torque sensor at harbor freight for about $45 that will read up to 250 psi. I did and torqued mine to spec (228), no noise since then. I got the locking washers but haven’t installed them yet, we’ll see if I need to at this torque.

 

[DIYGuy]

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-to-250-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58706.html

 

[DIYGuy]

Use with this: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...nd-tools/sockets-ratchets/breaker-bars/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html

 

[Cayohueso soccer dad]

dealer (who usually is not) was cool about torquing mine for me for free since it was a known issue and a bulletin.
usually they would have charged me 200 bucks to do even talk to me.
cheaper than buying a new torque wrench ill only need the one time.

 

[Cayohueso soccer dad]

same, nord lock washers and torque to 228.
fixed. no noise over 1k miles.

 

[Scott N]

dealer (who usually is not) was cool about torquing mine for me for free since it was a known issue and a bulletin.
usually they would have charged me 200 bucks to do even talk to me.
cheaper than buying a new torque wrench ill only need the one time.

Dealer I go to originally said it could be a $170 fee just to look at it with no guarantees that it would be covered by any warranty or TSB. Took many calls before they finally agreed it was covered by warranty. Scheduled to take it in tomorrow.

 

[lacompas]

Talked to my dealer about those "known Stellantis gremlins" and he was fully aware about the Pacifica's axles nuts values.

I was in for oil sweating the transaxle casing, this is another one of those problems requiring a retorque to fix 🥴 Apparently happens to PacHy's after 2-3 years, my 18 had the exact same leak as this 22 did.

 

[Martinpl]

At low speed when I first push or release the gas, I hear a click sound like it is in the dash. Has anyone noticed this? The van operates fine, but I notice the little sound at times.

I have noticed the same click. Drivers side behind the dash, when I apply and release the gas. What could this be?

 

[ThisSuckersElectrical]

I have noticed the same click. Drivers side behind the dash, when I apply and release the gas. What could this be?

Your answer is in this thread.

 

[Scott N]

Dealer I go to originally said it could be a $170 fee just to look at it with no guarantees that it would be covered by any warranty or TSB. Took many calls before they finally agreed it was covered by warranty. Scheduled to take it in tomorrow.

UPDATE: Dealer performed steps outlined in TSB and did it under powertrain warranty. It has made no difference. I'm just going to live with it since it's a minor noise.

 

[swaayze]

UPDATE: Dealer performed steps outlined in TSB and did it under powertrain warranty. It has made no difference. I'm just going to live with it since it's a minor noise.

Either you have a different problem or they gave you lip service.

If you're experiencing the axle issue that this thread is all about then ignoring it will likely lead to premature axle replacement at best and possibly uneven tire wear or even controllability issues eventually.

I'd get some Nord locks and find an independent mechanic to install them and do the updated torque of 228 (or DIY if you're able, it's very quick and simple). Stopped my noise. Cost < $15.

 

[Freezin]

I’ve had the nord locks on for about a year. I’ve had it start clicking twice on me. Once the passenger side was a bit loose. Next the drivers side was clicking but I loosened it 1/4 turn and tightened it back and it stopped.

 

[ThisSuckersElectrical]

Either you have a different problem or they gave you lip service.

If you're experiencing the axle issue that this thread is all about then ignoring it will likely lead to premature axle replacement at best and possibly uneven tire wear or even controllability issues eventually.

I'd get some Nord locks and find an independent mechanic to install them and do the updated torque of 228 (or DIY if you're able, it's very quick and simple). Stopped my noise. Cost < $15.

The primary concern would be a failed hub bearing. Those hubs have a specific torque required for the inner split races that the axle rides through. Those races can form a gap between them if the axle is not torqued correctly, allowing it to move in and out, causing the popping/clunk noise.

Obviously, his dealer is an idiot and did nothing. Both the 2018 and 2021 had this same issue on the driver's side, only for mine. Retorquing the axle nut on both of them resolved the problem for me.

You don't want this to separate from the axle not pushing up against the back properly. There is a lot of force and weight riding on these.

Over-torquing the axle nut can cause the axle shaft to snap in half inside the hub assembly due to excessive stretching from metal fatigue. That is why there is a warning in the TSBs for certain 2017 models not to use the new, increased torque specifications.

 

[rixbulk]

I’ve had the nord locks on for about a year. I’ve had it start clicking twice on me. Once the passenger side was a bit loose. Next the drivers side was clicking but I loosened it 1/4 turn and tightened it back and it stopped.

Thanks for the follow-on update.

I also have an update on this. When I initially torqued it to 160 ft lbs, the problem went away for about a week driven everyday, only 100 miles, so lots of starts and stops. I then torqued them to the 228ft lbs with the aid of the HF digital torque adapter. I ordered the nord-lock washers but shipping is pretty slow and I had other things to do besides worry about my wife's daily driver. After about 1.5 months, I still didn't find any issues with the nut loosening, but I still put on the nord-lock washers and torqued them to the 228ft lbs again. I hope this will keep the problem away until I change cars. I think this is silly that Chrysler doesn't look into fixing these issues for a van that has remained fairly unchanged since 2017. I wonder how other manufacturers would have fared with this same issue that seem so trivial to fix. How a car feels mechanically really does affect our perception of the quality of the car.

 

[SitKneelBend]

The primary concern would be a failed hub bearing. Those hubs have a specific torque required for the inner split races that the axle rides through. Those races can form a gap between them if the axle is not torqued correctly, allowing it to move in and out, causing the popping/clunk noise.

Obviously, his dealer is an idiot and did nothing. Both the 2018 and 2021 had this same issue on the driver's side, only for mine. Retorquing the axle nut on both of them resolved the problem for me.

You don't want this to separate from the axle not pushing up against the back properly. There is a lot of force and weight riding on these.
View attachment 60834

Over-torquing the axle nut can cause the axle shaft to snap in half inside the hub assembly due to excessive stretching from metal fatigue. That is why there is a warning in the TSBs for certain 2017 models not to use the new, increased torque specifications.

Thanks for the follow-on update.

I also have an update on this. When I initially torqued it to 160 ft lbs, the problem went away for about a week driven everyday, only 100 miles, so lots of starts and stops. I then torqued them to the 228ft lbs with the aid of the HF digital torque adapter. I ordered the nord-lock washers but shipping is pretty slow and I had other things to do besides worry about my wife's daily driver. After about 1.5 months, I still didn't find any issues with the nut loosening, but I still put on the nord-lock washers and torqued them to the 228ft lbs again. I hope this will keep the problem away until I change cars. I think this is silly that Chrysler doesn't look into fixing these issues for a van that has remained fairly unchanged since 2017. I wonder how other manufacturers would have fared with this same issue that seem so trivial to fix. How a car feels mechanically really does affect our perception of the quality of the car.

I too had them retorqued to the new spec without Nord locks and have not had it recur in about 6 months

 

[Freezin]

Thanks for the follow-on update.

I also have an update on this. When I initially torqued it to 160 ft lbs, the problem went away for about a week driven everyday, only 100 miles, so lots of starts and stops. I then torqued them to the 228ft lbs with the aid of the HF digital torque adapter. I ordered the nord-lock washers but shipping is pretty slow and I had other things to do besides worry about my wife's daily driver. After about 1.5 months, I still didn't find any issues with the nut loosening, but I still put on the nord-lock washers and torqued them to the 228ft lbs again. I hope this will keep the problem away until I change cars. I think this is silly that Chrysler doesn't look into fixing these issues for a van that has remained fairly unchanged since 2017. I wonder how other manufacturers would have fared with this same issue that seem so trivial to fix. How a car feels mechanically really does affect our perception of the quality of the car.

Did you try to double them up? Put the old ones on the outside?

 

[rixbulk]

Did you try to double them up? Put the old ones on the outside?

I didn't try that method since I didn't order new nuts. It didn't look like there was enough threads so I didn't consider that as a fix versus just buying nordlocks.