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Replaced mine today. While it is under warranty with 14,000 miles, the price of the part for 16.49 outweighed the risk of COVID exposer at the dealership. Took me 15 minutes to replace the part. Very simple. Only need a 7mm socket to remove the two screws for the floor HVAC duct to get it out of the way, and a 5.5mm socket to remove the two servo screws.
 
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A sub size 1/4" drive worked for me, but a small arm and wrist helps. You do have to feel for the head as you cannot see it. For reference, in the second picture above, it is the upper left mounting hole that has the blind screw that must be removed. The lower left hole is the one an alignment pin fits into. The other screw that is visible when you are on the floor fits into a hole that is just out of view in the lower right of that second picture.
However, new information!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:
Recall that I did observe split second damped oscillation of the door with the new servo when moving to the center parked position. It has been only a month and I now hear servo hunting again. This time it is a higher frequency, quicker oscillation. I will remove the glove box to see if it is the same recirc door and report back here. If the same problem, I suspect poor electronic driver / mechanical mismatch design.
 

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A sub size 1/4" drive worked for me, but a small arm and wrist helps. You do have to feel for the head as you cannot see it. For reference, in the second picture above, it is the upper left mounting hole that has the blind screw that must be removed. The lower left hole is the one an alignment pin fits into. The other screw that is visible when you are on the floor fits into a hole that is just out of view in the lower right of that second picture.
However, new information!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:
Recall that I did observe split second damped oscillation of the door with the new servo when moving to the center parked position. It has been only a month and I now hear servo hunting again. This time it is a higher frequency, quicker oscillation. I will remove the glove box to see if it is the same recirc door and report back here. If the same problem, I suspect poor electronic driver / mechanical mismatch design.
How is your part holding up? Mine has been doing the same thing for the past month. I’m about to order the part. Has anyone tried to disassemble the old part and see if it just needs to be cleaned or something?
 

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How is your part holding up? Mine has been doing the same thing for the past month. I’m about to order the part. Has anyone tried to disassemble the old part and see if it just needs to be cleaned or something?
Haven't had any problems since replacing mine. The unit is sealed most likely would breaking trying to take it apart. The part is cheap, replace it.
 

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Haven't had any problems since replacing mine. The unit is sealed most likely would breaking trying to take it apart. The part is cheap, replace it.
Well, I’m not a fan with replacing a defective part with another defective part that’s just going to fail again, but I will do it this time and tinker with the broken one when I get a chance. It would be nice if we could pinpoint when these started to fail, and maybe get a salvaged one off of an older model that is known to be more reliable. I’m also open to using aftermarket knockoffs if the factory part is known to be junk.
 

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Well, I’m not a fan with replacing a defective part with another defective part that’s just going to fail again, but I will do it this time and tinker with the broken one when I get a chance. It would be nice if we could pinpoint when these started to fail, and maybe get a salvaged one off of an older model that is known to be more reliable. I’m also open to using aftermarket knockoffs if the factory part is known to be junk.
Why would the replacement part be defective?
 

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Why would the replacement part be defective?
I finally got around to installing the salvaged Chrysler one I had ordered off an older car to try to get one from a different batch. It had the same problem. They are all junk. I ordered a Dorman 604-054 and will be installing that. It has a lifetime warranty. Once you have done it and know where the 2 screws are, it only takes a few minutes. It will probably last forever though.
 

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Thank you to those that came before me and detailed this issue. I replaced our actuator today and the problem is solved. I did a quick video showing what is happening with a bad actuator, how it functions when it is working properly, as well as what I think is a revision on the parts (I'm thinking code 303 might be a newer revision than 301). Apologies, I did not put much effort into video editing...

 

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Thank you to those that came before me and detailed this issue. I replaced our actuator today and the problem is solved. I did a quick video showing what is happening with a bad actuator, how it functions when it is working properly, as well as what I think is a revision on the parts (I'm thinking code 303 might be a newer revision than 301). Apologies, I did not put much effort into video editing...

My van had a 306 that failed. I bought a salvaged 305 on eBay and it had already failed before I bought it. Both would oscillate, even with no load on them when not attached to the door. So I’m not sure if the revision number means they fixed it. I said F it and just put a Dorman at that point. This is one rare situation where I felt aftermarket is probably better. I do hope you get a decent life out of your new part though. Let us know if it ever fails.
 

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Ok add me to list of those who have completed the replacement of this part - completed last night. I was able to get the top screw by feeling for it and using a very short extension to my 1/4 drive socket wrench. If you look at the number on my failed part it has 16456810 on the defective part but that is not the part # the part # is 68164960 AA. Mine was $25.54 out the door at a local dealer for me. Personally I think that Chrysler should mail a $100 check to everyone on here who can prove that they have replaced this obviously defective part or defective design whatever the case may be. Mine is a 2018 with about 42,xxx miles on the van. I do thank all those that contributed to this knowledge. It is great to have this issued fixed / repaired - the noise drove us nuts.
 

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Does anyone know the spec of the screws that hold the actuator in place? I may or may not have dropped one of them while installing a replacement unit... By the way, this repair also solved the issue for us. Thanks!
 

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Just want to say major thanks to this forum... Just joined this forum! When I too was having this issue and the dealer was unable to help at first. Mine is a 2019 Pacifica Hybrid and JUST started having this issue, About June 2021...

The dealer seemed quite uninterested in helping at first... After finding this forum, using the terminology found here, the technician was able to somewhat reproduce the sound. The issue is, it seems to do the prolonged noise making after about 20 minutes of "sitting" and then opening the door "activates" the noise, and then you only have 2 or so minutes to catch the noise... Then, I imagine you would have to start all over again. This would have been quite heart-breaking if I didn't have this forum to help pinpoint the issue.
 

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I finally got around to installing the salvaged Chrysler one I had ordered off an older car to try to get one from a different batch. It had the same problem. They are all junk. I ordered a Dorman 604-054 and will be installing that. It has a lifetime warranty. Once you have done it and know where the 2 screws are, it only takes a few minutes. It will probably last forever though.
My van had a 306 that failed. I bought a salvaged 305 on eBay and it had already failed before I bought it. Both would oscillate, even with no load on them when not attached to the door. So I’m not sure if the revision number means they fixed it. I said F it and just put a Dorman at that point. This is one rare situation where I felt aftermarket is probably better. I do hope you get a decent life out of your new part though. Let us know if it ever fails.
Fixed, but is failing again. NOT FIXED!!!
I replaced mine Oct. 2020 (see posts 54, 55, 56, 59, and 63 in this thread) with a new factory actuator from the Chrysler dealership. One month later, I expressed concern in post 63 that the new actuator was barely damped and its oscillation might come back. Well it is now moderately bad again and hunts for 10 seconds or more at shutdown.
To recap:
The hunting servo sound is a re-circulation door actuator hunting for its commanded position. It is usually noticeable after the car is turned off and there is no other sound to mask it. At shutdown, the actuator is commanded to its neutral position. A failing actuator “hunts” or oscillates around the commanded position due to degrading electrical contact of the Pot (feedback) wiper in the actuator. It can and has occurred at other times. The hunting can continue for minutes until the drive circuit is either disabled during normal vehicle off shutdown sequence or if the position feedback pot randomly happens to satisfy the driver commanded position. Once the hunting gets bad enough, thousands of cycles can be put on the actuator in a short time. (Before mine was finally replaced it would always hunt for several minutes until the driver was disabled during the vehicle Off sequencing, and would trigger again whenever the car was shut down or the door was simply opened).
As Preebs78 pointed out: “It is the recirculator actuator or better known as the blend door actuator … part # 6830967AA. It costs less than $30 over the parts counter at the dealership and is even cheaper aftermarket.

I think Ledlightguy is right. The original factory part and even the factory replacement parts are JUNK.
I would be interested if anyone else has had their factory replacement start failing again, or how the Dorman 604-054 or other aftermarket replacement is doing.
 

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I finally got around to installing the salvaged Chrysler one I had ordered off an older car to try to get one from a different batch. It had the same problem. They are all junk. I ordered a Dorman 604-054 and will be installing that. It has a lifetime warranty. Once you have done it and know where the 2 screws are, it only takes a few minutes. It will probably last forever though.
How is your Dorman 604-054 performing. My dealer replacement is failing AGAIN.
 

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Problem Solved Recirculation Actuator

Took our 2108 Pacifica Hybrid into the shop for second time to resolve issue with pumping or ink jet printer noise coming from underneath passenger side dash. First time results were we were told they all do it. We beg to differ but took it home. Two months later we see the post on this forum regarding at the same problem. This time took it in and told them where to look and what might be the problem. Athens Landmark Dodge solved the problem this time!
Here is actual verbiage from repair no charge invoice (under warranty 32000 miles): Customer states their EIS a gear/grinding noise coming from the right side of the dash; servo jitter? Recirculation door.

Duplicated noise, located noise, behind dash, removed under panel and glove box, found recirculation door flutters at half way point.When vehicle shuts off this door should move to the half way of open or closed. It couldn't find the half way point and just sat there and ratcheted back and forth. After performing electrical test to see if the actuator was bad or the control module was the cause, determined the actuator causing the issue. Replaced recirculation actuator to correct. Noise no longer present.

So i hope this helps other folks out there with this problem to get it solved before you vehicle goes out of warranty. So it was the recirculation actuator as described earlier in this string but this is the first post that I am aware of where the problem has been solved. My apologies if already posted elsewhere.
So you're a time traveler? I didn't think the 2108s would be out for a while yet. Hahaha
Anyway, just popped in to post that my 2020 Hybrid has the same problem so it hasn't been fixed yet. I guess they figure most people will ignore it but it's too annoying to me. Going in Monday.
 

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This is a really good thread to follow since it appears that FCA never really fixed the problem of a poorly-made blend door actuator since the Mopar replacement is no different than the one installed at the factory, meaning it will fail soon enough, too, and the Dorman aftermarket unit is the one to use as a replacement to actually solve the problem.
 

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This part is also acting up in our 2018 gas model. I came across this thread while searching for info. I just ordered the Dorman part (604-054) from RockAuto for a little over $18 shipped. I'm generally not a fan of Dorman parts, but figured I'd try it after reading about repeat failures of the OEM part. I'll probably get it installed next weekend. I'll follow up after I get it in.
 

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This is a really good thread to follow since it appears that FCA never really fixed the problem of a poorly-made blend door actuator since the Mopar replacement is no different than the one installed at the factory, meaning it will fail soon enough, too, and the Dorman aftermarket unit is the one to use as a replacement to actually solve the problem.
I agree. But the physical blend door is a great design. Its the actuator for it and/or its electronic driver that are the problem. The osclillation is typical of an undamped system whose electronic driver and actuator are not properly "tuned" together, or the actuator itself has poor potentiometer construction. Since this actuator performs fine in many other vehicle applications, I believe the former is the culprit (the electronic driver is not designed correctly for the actuator dynamics and over-shoots its target position requiring drive in the opposite direction, rinse repeat). The failure of the actuator is just a symptom of wear when you put way too many cycles on it. The actuator wear aggravates the problem when its potentiometer signal becomes noisy due to the wear.
 

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Just went to replace mine with a Dorman one. Was feeling up in there and noticed it felt different than the one I had. Sure enough RockAuto send the wrong part. Now, I cannot find it in stock any where.
 
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