[Dimrilldell]

Thanks.

Thanks.

I've ordered a 1/4 inch drive swivel socket and will give it another try.

 

[seo68]

I used a 1/4" drive wobble extension and I found that very helpful.

 

[freddief73]

I've ordered a 1/4 inch drive swivel socket and will give it another try.

I used a 1/4" drive palm ratchet. I honestly don't know how people are able to do this job without one. There's not enough room to use any sort of traditional socket wrench IMO.

 

[Dimrilldell]

I used a 1/4" drive palm ratchet. I honestly don't know how people are able to do this job without one. There's not enough room to use any sort of traditional socket wrench IMO.

Did you use an extension with the palm ratchet?

 

[freddief73]

Did you use an extension with the palm ratchet?

No, just a regular socket. I tried a longer deep-well socket first, but it was too long.

 

[Dimrilldell]

No, just a regular socket. I tried a longer deep-well socket first, but it was too long.

Amazon sells palm ratchets and finger ratchet - I'll get one of each.
Thanks for the info - much appreciated.
Many thanks to all who posted to this thread.

 

[freddief73]

Amazon sells palm ratchets and finger ratchet - I'll get one of each.
Thanks for the info - much appreciated.
Many thanks to all who posted to this thread.

This is what I used.

 

[Dimrilldell]

This is what I used.

View attachment 49176

Thanks, just ordered one from Amazon.

 

[TechGuy02026]

Problem Solved Recirculation Actuator

Took our 2108 Pacifica Hybrid into the shop for second time to resolve issue with pumping or ink jet printer noise coming from underneath passenger side dash. First time results were we were told they all do it. We beg to differ but took it home. Two months later we see the post on this forum regarding at the same problem. This time took it in and told them where to look and what might be the problem. Athens Landmark Dodge solved the problem this time!
Here is actual verbiage from repair no charge invoice (under warranty 32000 miles): Customer states their EIS a gear/grinding noise coming from the right side of the dash; servo jitter? Recirculation door.

Duplicated noise, located noise, behind dash, removed under panel and glove box, found recirculation door flutters at half way point.When vehicle shuts off this door should move to the half way of open or closed. It couldn't find the half way point and just sat there and ratcheted back and forth. After performing electrical test to see if the actuator was bad or the control module was the cause, determined the actuator causing the issue. Replaced recirculation actuator to correct. Noise no longer present.

So i hope this helps other folks out there with this problem to get it solved before you vehicle goes out of warranty. So it was the recirculation actuator as described earlier in this string but this is the first post that I am aware of where the problem has been solved. My apologies if already posted elsewhere.

Here’s the part on Amazon, $20.
HVAC Air Door Actuator Heater Blend Door Levers Compatible with Dodge Dart 2013-2016 Pacifica 2017-2019 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0852LV434/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XRPT9CJ0C3CWYEDGKKP7

 

[Dimrilldell]

SERVO REPLACEMENT

The servo motor that drives the recirculation (blend) door is on the left side of the cabin air filter housing. It is stocked by my dealer and should be a stocked item for most Chrysler dealers as it is used in multiple model cars and apparently fails often. The two screws that m0ebius604 mentioned are difficult but not impossible to get to. Looking up at the failed servo while laying on my back on the floor, its exterior appeared a little oily from leakage. After all, tens of thousands of extra cycles were run on this motor due to its failed position feedback. The motor in the servo runs forward and backward depending on the polarity of the 12V applied to its pins 5 and 6. Position sense is likely obtained from a 4.3 Kohm potentiometer (pins 1,2 and 3). Resistance between pins 1 and 3 is a consistent 4.3 Kohm no matter what the servo position, so pin 2 is likely to be the Pot wiper. My new servo has the same resistance between pins 1 and 3 as the failed servo. Resistance between pin 2 and either pin 1 or 3 on my failed servo is inconsistent with position and higher than expected which is a dead giveaway for a dirty, worn out, or oil contaminated Pot wiper contact. (So much for “Swiss Made” servo quality).
[url=https://postimg.cc/Wqq5jQ1V][/URL]
[url=https://postimg.cc/w31fhscr][/URL]
I checked the new servo out of the package. The 1-2 resistance is about the same as the 2-3 resistance so it appears to be about in the mid position which is where the Pachy leaves it when shut down. So it was installed this way. Reaching in the cabin air filter slot to move the damper around its mid position lets the servo engage properly so it can be screwed down. You do NOT want to drop the screws so taping them to the socket with some painters tape helps. Plug it in, turn on the car and move between fresh air and recirc to see that the damper moves back and forward like it should. When I turned the car off, the damper settles in the mid position with a little split second oscillation but no continuous hunting like before. Problem fixed!

I could have had the servo replaced under warranty, but scheduling became such a hassle that I bought it at the dealer p/n 68164960AA. I was a little unhappy about this, but the parts guy felt my pain (perhaps encouraged by my service manager) so discounted the servo from the $25.xx down to $16.41, so I was happy again.

CABIN AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT

Might as well replace while replacing the servo. I ordered the PureFlow Cabin Air Filter PC99238X from the PureFlow web site. OEM quality with activated carbon and baking soda. Ordering 2 gets 10% discount, free ship and no tax for TX. ($35.60 total and they accept paypal).

PUSH PIN REPLACEMENT

If you’re like me and others on this forum, you accidentally pushed one of the pins of the molding push rivets holding the felt barrier behind the glove box and it launched into never land. I actually located it by feel and then by mirror on the left side of the blower housing. But while fishing it out with a wire, I launched it into never never land behind the center console. So I found exact OEM replacements stocked at Advance Auto Parts. Dorman 963-227D, 2 in package for $3.99. (Dealer couldn’t find them and no help.)

"molding push rivets" I lost one the same way - thanks for the replacement info!

 

[Dimrilldell]

"molding push rivets" I lost one the same way - thanks for the replacement info!

What is the trick for removing the cable connector? (Yeah, I know it is a dumb question)

 

[ThisSuckersElectrical]

What is the trick for removing the cable connector? (Yeah, I know it is a dumb question)

Push the lock tab down to release the lock.

 

[LBPacifica]

Same with me. I bought this one:

Amazon.com: A-Premium HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator Replacement for Pacifica Dodge Dart 2013-2019 Main : Automotive

Buy A-Premium HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator Replacement for Pacifica Dodge Dart 2013-2019 Main: Heater Blend Door Levers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

smile.amazon.com

no idea what how durable it is, so far I've only had it installed for about a month, but it does work so far

Just wanted to share that I bought from this seller on Amazon as well. The part looks the same and seems like it would work, but the connector piece on the actuator is slightly too fat to fit. Total bummer. Had no issues getting the broken old actuator out (<5min) but spent a solid hour trying to figure out why I couldn't get the new piece in.

Thanks everyone that contributed knowledge...at least I know what's broken, now it's just a matter of finding the part. I'm considering opening up the two actuators and trying to swap the connector pieces.

 

[seo68]

Just wanted to share that I bought from this seller on Amazon as well. The part looks the same and seems like it would work, but the connector piece on the actuator is slightly too fat to fit. Total bummer. Had no issues getting the broken old actuator out (<5min) but spent a solid hour trying to figure out why I couldn't get the new piece in.

Thanks everyone that contributed knowledge...at least I know what's broken, now it's just a matter of finding the part. I'm considering opening up the two actuators and trying to swap the connector pieces.

Same thing happened to me, but I discovered that you can pull (pry) the connector off and swap the old one for the new one and then it worked. I just wedged a small flat screwdriver tip in at the base of the connector and then rotated the screwdriver to lift the connector off of the actuators. I didn't mention it in my post because I thought perhaps my case was just a one off. Shame on me, I should have pointed that out before. Thanks for posting.

 

[LBPacifica]

Same thing happened to me, but I discovered that you can pull (pry) the connector off and swap the old one for the new one and then it worked. I just wedged a small flat screwdriver tip in at the base of the connector and then rotated the screwdriver to lift the connector off of the actuators. I didn't mention it in my post because I thought perhaps my case was just a one off. Shame on me, I should have pointed that out before. Thanks for posting.

OMG...THANK YOU!!! I was getting ready to pry open new and old clamshells thinking that connector piece would need to be released from inside but then saw your follow up. Just got through replacing mine, 10 minutes, no more clicking noise.

I really appreciate the help seo68.

 

[Haden]

I just repaired my Recirculated Air door actuator. Turns out the part is around $25 and takes less than 30min to install.

Pn 68164960AA

Empty the content and drop the Glove Box out by releasing the damper snap on the right side, pressing the side tabs inward to release and fold it downward. Release the trim covering the Recirculated air filter with a slight push on the center of the clips (1/8” upward) and release the trim by pulling out the clips. Release the 2 Phillips screws on the lower vent and pop it out. There are two 7/32” screws holding the actuator in place and 1 alignment stud. Release the screws, pop the old actuator out (Be careful not to mix them up by marking it immediately!)

The new one might not go in because the aligment is out, just plug it in, press recirc on the HVAC panel and install it into the holder. Turn off the ignition and re-install everything in reverse. (Retrim)

No coding needed.

BROADLY, I agree with m0ebius604, who does a great job laying out the steps to access the part. What I strongly disagree with, was the 30 minutes it took. I would really like some tips and pointers if anyone has any, for how you get the actuator screws out, and then back in. I was doing this on a 2019 gas Pacifica, and this is such a tightly constrained location I would NEVER do it again myself. I don't know what tool would make it better, I had a thumbwheel ratchet, extensions, universal joints, etc and WAS able to eventually get the screws out and one back in (the other is lost forever in the dash somewhere), but I never found the ah-hah moment of realizing what tool/angle/etc was right for the application. I'll be attempting the second screw when I get a replacement...which I might grab a dozen because I have no idea how to start that other screw.

 

[seo68]

I would really like some tips and pointers if anyone has any, for how you get the actuator screws out, and then back in.

I made a serendipitous mistake when replacing mine and removed a panel that I didn't have to. Doing so ended up giving me easier access. Check out post 88 in this thread.

 

[skyfx]

Problem Solved Recirculation Actuator

Took our 2108 Pacifica Hybrid into the shop for second time to resolve issue with pumping or ink jet printer noise coming from underneath passenger side dash. First time results were we were told they all do it. We beg to differ but took it home. Two months later we see the post on this forum regarding at the same problem. This time took it in and told them where to look and what might be the problem. Athens Landmark Dodge solved the problem this time!
Here is actual verbiage from repair no charge invoice (under warranty 32000 miles): Customer states their EIS a gear/grinding noise coming from the right side of the dash; servo jitter? Recirculation door.

Duplicated noise, located noise, behind dash, removed under panel and glove box, found recirculation door flutters at half way point.When vehicle shuts off this door should move to the half way of open or closed. It couldn't find the half way point and just sat there and ratcheted back and forth. After performing electrical test to see if the actuator was bad or the control module was the cause, determined the actuator causing the issue. Replaced recirculation actuator to correct. Noise no longer present.

So i hope this helps other folks out there with this problem to get it solved before you vehicle goes out of warranty. So it was the recirculation actuator as described earlier in this string but this is the first post that I am aware of where the problem has been solved. My apologies if already posted elsewhere.

Hey all,

I'm having the same issue with the clicking noise from the recirculation actuator when turning off the vehicle after driving or when opening one of the sliding doors after the vehicle was off and parked for some period of time. I took the car to the dealership, and they indicated that it was caused by the IBS (intelligent battery sensor?) having gone bad. Apparently the bad IBS also caused my auxiliary battery to go bad (causing my Start/Stop to not work) as well as for the recirculation actuator to lose its calibration, in turn causing the noise. They replaced the auxiliary battery and IBS, and I was off to the races.

Fast forward to a few days later and the instrument cluster was again reporting that Start/Stop wasn't working due to the battery charging, despite me having driven quite some distances. I thus disconnected the auxiliary battery and hooked it to up to my trickle charger @ 12V/2A. After it finished charging and I reconnected it, Start/Stop was working again. However, the noise from the recirculation actuator is back . Anybody know if I can recalibrate the actuator myself, or do I have to take the car back to the dealership again?

Thanks!

 

[seo68]

Hey all,

I'm having the same issue with the clicking noise from the recirculation actuator when turning off the vehicle after driving or when opening one of the sliding doors after the vehicle was off and parked for some period of time. I took the car to the dealership, and they indicated that it was caused by the IBS (intelligent battery sensor?) having gone bad. Apparently the bad IBS also caused my auxiliary battery to go bad (causing my Start/Stop to not work) as well as for the recirculation actuator to lose its calibration, in turn causing the noise. They replaced the auxiliary battery and IBS, and I was off to the races.

Fast forward to a few days later and the instrument cluster was again reporting that Start/Stop wasn't working due to the battery charging, despite me having driven quite some distances. I thus disconnected the auxiliary battery and hooked it to up to my trickle charger @ 12V/2A. After it finished charging and I reconnected it, Start/Stop was working again. However, the noise from the recirculation actuator is back . Anybody know if I can recalibrate the actuator myself, or do I have to take the car back to the dealership again?

Thanks!

I don't think the IBS has anything to do with the recirculation actuator, nor can it be reasonably calibrated. I am very surprised that the noise went away, unless it was just a happy coincidence. The acuator needs to be replaced.

 

[freddief73]

Hey all,

I'm having the same issue with the clicking noise from the recirculation actuator when turning off the vehicle after driving or when opening one of the sliding doors after the vehicle was off and parked for some period of time. I took the car to the dealership, and they indicated that it was caused by the IBS (intelligent battery sensor?) having gone bad. Apparently the bad IBS also caused my auxiliary battery to go bad (causing my Start/Stop to not work) as well as for the recirculation actuator to lose its calibration, in turn causing the noise. They replaced the auxiliary battery and IBS, and I was off to the races.

Fast forward to a few days later and the instrument cluster was again reporting that Start/Stop wasn't working due to the battery charging, despite me having driven quite some distances. I thus disconnected the auxiliary battery and hooked it to up to my trickle charger @ 12V/2A. After it finished charging and I reconnected it, Start/Stop was working again. However, the noise from the recirculation actuator is back . Anybody know if I can recalibrate the actuator myself, or do I have to take the car back to the dealership again?

Thanks!

The IBS has nothing to do with the recirculation door actuator. There is no calibration you can perform that will fix it. You must replace the part (see previous posts for more info on that). No post-replacement calibration is necessary.