[Lily]

@Lily
Thank you so much Lily, you are a lifesaver. I have CAREFULLY read all 3 sections, and was hoping you can add some missing info:
1. procedure to remove/install rotors + torque specs
2. minimum thickness - I see a reference to it being "cast/stamped on the rotor":

• is there not a spec table with the exact numbers in the manual?
• if not, "OD of the brake plate" - is it an edge, outer rim of the rotor? and, is "the side of the hub mounting face" - an inner wall of the hat?

3. List 3, as in {Torque Specifications)(Refer To List 3)
4. is there not a listing/identification/count of fasteners involved in each procedure? bolt/nut hex/allen/torx heads along with the thread and length.

thank you a whole lot in advance

1. Seriously? After everything is removed pull or hammer off the rotor. install - put rotor back on Your owners manual will have your wheel torque.
2. When you take it off, look for the number, with your eyes.
3. All the toque specs are listed in the table, I'm not going to double post data
4. Huh? there are pictures.... seriously, you're way over thinking this. its a simple job that even an novice mechanic can know out.

Pro tip from experience - when you press that caliper back in take the cap off your brake fluid tank it will be much easier. It should not spill out unless somebody stupidly add more to it but to be safe you make want to place some shop rags around the opening because it is corrosive.

 

[JeffT]

@Lilly great set of posts! I just stumbled upon them as I am trying to hunt down an issue that I am having after just doing an all around brake job on my 2018 Pacifica.

The van only has 26K miles on it but needed the rotors turned because I was getting a vibration and pulsation in the pedal, so I decided to replace all the pads at the same time. I ran into an issue when putting everything back together, a frozen guide pin on the upper caliper mount on the driver side front. I could not get it out of the mount so I decided to replace the mount with a new mount, guide pins and boots (packed with grease).

I am now getting a clunking noise that is coming from the driver side when going over expansion joints on poorly paved roads and I believe I have narrowed it down to the caliper rattling. The noise goes away with light pressure on the brake pedal.

Have you ever heard of this? There is a little play in the caliper as it floats on the guide pins, but no more then I believe to be normal for the system. My father in-law has suggested that the rotors have been turned to thin, despite the shop telling me they were within specs.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Lily]

Sorry, I have not been well and when I have been I've spent it outside with my wife and daughter. Clucking, be sure that when you put new pads that you put new hardware kit in with them. Cheaper pads sometimes dont come with them but most of the good to premium come with a hardware kit and by kit I mean little metal bent shims that go in between the brake pads and the caliper/mounting bracket. If you didn't put those in that could be the cause. Could be dust shield - Ive had that happen before. Could just be coincidence that you're getting the clunk right after you changed the brakes. I'd take the wheel off and just hit all the hardware with a torque wrench and verify everything is tightened to specs. It's easy to forget one especially when you already knocked 3 of them out and your on that last one.

I have to poke fun at you for getting the rotors turned - thats so old fashion of you - the time and money spent on getting them turned I just opt to get new ones. I just did my wifes jeep patriot all new pads and rotors and im talking the best ones you can get at autozone out the door was like $260. I just don't like the idea of having them turned because first off - I hardly trust ANYBODY to do anything right anymore, society has for some reason come to accept the fact that even tho you're paying for 100% of a job you may only actually get 80% of what you paid for. Secondly - getting rotors turned takes even more material off already worn rotors. Sure, you can get a micrometer out and measure the thickness and verify its still within specs but brakes aren't something I like to think "good enough" about. Brakes get hot and when they get hot they loose their braking effectiveness. Thinner metal will heat up quicker and are more likely to warp especially in the rain. Thats just how I feel about getting them turned.

Good luck - follow up and let us know what you find out.

@Lilly great set of posts! I just stumbled upon them as I am trying to hunt down an issue that I am having after just doing an all around brake job on my 2018 Pacifica.

The van only has 26K miles on it but needed the rotors turned because I was getting a vibration and pulsation in the pedal, so I decided to replace all the pads at the same time. I ran into an issue when putting everything back together, a frozen guide pin on the upper caliper mount on the driver side front. I could not get it out of the mount so I decided to replace the mount with a new mount, guide pins and boots (packed with grease).

I am now getting a clunking noise that is coming from the driver side when going over expansion joints on poorly paved roads and I believe I have narrowed it down to the caliper rattling. The noise goes away with light pressure on the brake pedal.

Have you ever heard of this? There is a little play in the caliper as it floats on the guide pins, but no more then I believe to be normal for the system. My father in-law has suggested that the rotors have been turned to thin, despite the shop telling me they were within specs.

Thanks for any help!

 

[10961]

The most thorough descriptions I've found are these ones:
Front Brakes: Chrysler Pacifica Minivan Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide - 2017, 2018 & 2019 Model Years - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions
Rear Brakes: Chrysler Pacifica Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide - 2017, 2018 & 2019 Model Years - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions

Really, just doing an inspection. Our hybrid has 120k km and brake pads still look almost new like this: CRAZY!

Now I just have to figure out whether it's the brakes making a chirping and snapping sound and whether it's due to age and dirt.

 

[Lily]

The most thorough descriptions I've found are these ones:
Front Brakes: Chrysler Pacifica Minivan Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide - 2017, 2018 & 2019 Model Years - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions
Rear Brakes: Chrysler Pacifica Rear Brake Pads Replacement Guide - 2017, 2018 & 2019 Model Years - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions

Really, just doing an inspection. Our hybrid has 120k km and brake pads still look almost new like this: CRAZY!
View attachment 46601 View attachment 46602

Now I just have to figure out whether it's the brakes making a chirping and snapping sound and whether it's due to age and dirt.

correct me if i'm wrong - i believe the hybrid uses some sort of regeneration system basically using the momentum to generate a little bit of a charge which would drastically cut down on the brake pad wear and tear

 

[10961]

Exactly. Didn't realize how much of a difference regenerative braking makes until I noticed the brake wear over time. We usually drive in L as well, so the regen braking is aggressive as well. Looks like the parts are wearing out from the environment before actually being consumed from use.

 

[nphengsiar]

Does anyone know or can confirm the bolt sizes for the front and rear? For the front, is it 13mm for the caliper pins and 21mm for the mounting brackets? For the rear, l know that the caliper pins are 7mm hex. Is it 18mm for the mounting brackets? Doing our 2018 Pacifica Touring over the weekend. Thank you.

 

[freddief73]

Does anyone know or can confirm the bolt sizes for the front and rear? For the front, is it 13mm for the caliper pins and 21mm for the mounting brackets? For the rear, l know that the caliper pins are 7mm hex. Is it 18mm for the mounting brackets? Doing our 2018 Pacifica Touring over the weekend. Thank you.

I just replaced the front brake pads & rotors on our van. You are correct. The front caliper pins are 13mm and the front caliper bracket bolts are 21mm. The torque specs are also 27 Ft-lbs and 149 Ft-lbs respectively. No threadlocker or anti-seize should be used for any of those fasteners.