[keep_hope]

Great thread. And I’m hoping it will end up saving us a good bit of money 🙂. I’m decently handy with various automotive tasks and I’m certain I’ll have no problem figuring out the new wiring and installing the part itself. However, I’m struggling to even get started as I can’t figure out how to release the fuel pressure on our Hybrid. It has the same fuel pump fuse as a regular Pacifica (43) but if I pull it while it’s running, it just starts running rough and idling up and down and never shuts off. Any ideas?

 

[elviscg82]

Hi guys…I changed all OEM Parts for P018D and after a day, the engine lights came on again…so any suggestions? I did it last year, the same 💩 and worked a while and now again…it’s pissing me off

 

[Mastiff]

What a pain guys. Chrysler discontinued the part just because it was specific for two years and they want to standardize? If so, the math is a mystery to me. Paying techs to solder on new wires makes a 10 minute job into an hour job. I'm really on the fence about doing this myself if I can't get the original part... I've done much worse jobs, but having to get this right the first time on my wife's daily transportation makes it stressful.

I thought I found a 52030445AA online, but the next day after I paid and everything they canceled it because they didn't really have it. I just found another place with one, but we'll see if it's the same thing again. Some places in Canada claim to have them but they won't ship down here.

And BTW, what is this stupid sensor even for given that the engine seems to run just fine with it malfunctioning? Every problem I've repaired on this van so far has been for no purpose besides passing emission inspections as far as I can tell.

 

[psilons]

My wife's van threw the P018D code and has major surging when the accelerator is pressed. The dealership says the fuel pressure sensor is faulty and they want $534 to change it. We bought the car used and thought it would be covered under the basic warranty since it is still under 36k miles but apparently the warranty expired June 6. Also, how is this not covered under powertrain warranty? This failure causes the engine not to run properly, I would consider that powertrain. It seems to be the straw that broke the camel's back for my wife. She wants to trade it in and replace it even though we have only had it a couple months and just put new tires on it. So far, it has had a failed radio, failed DVD player, failed air mixer, we encountered the sliding door failure that may or may not be fixed by a firmware update TSB (that they want to charge $150 to do since it's out of warranty), and now this.

😂 My wife's 2018 Pacifica went through all those same repairs under basic and extended warranty plus a catalyst converter replaced after it got so hot that it almost caught the van on fire. Just got this CEL with p018c. I feel like a chump for recommending wife to get this minivan. Argg...

 

[Jeff12p]

😂 My wife's 2018 Pacifica went through all those same repairs under basic and extended warranty plus a catalyst converter replaced after it got so hot that it almost caught the van on fire. Just got this CEL with p018c. I feel like a chump for recommending wife to get this minivan. Argg...

It really is a shame because the features and comfort of the van were awesome. As much as we like her new vehicle, we often lament the van having all of the issues that made us replace it.

 

[10961]

Great thread. And I’m hoping it will end up saving us a good bit of money 🙂. I’m decently handy with various automotive tasks and I’m certain I’ll have no problem figuring out the new wiring and installing the part itself. However, I’m struggling to even get started as I can’t figure out how to release the fuel pressure on our Hybrid. It has the same fuel pump fuse as a regular Pacifica (43) but if I pull it while it’s running, it just starts running rough and idling up and down and never shuts off. Any ideas?

Did you ever figure this out or did you just get a bunch of rags and soak up the fuel?

 

[10961]

CRAP! I just disconnected my wiring harness from the fuel line first and then I heard something fall behind in the engine compartment. Anybody know what that might be? Mine end looks like this and I'm not sure if something important is missing.

 

[Jschim]

CRAP! I just disconnected my wiring harness from the fuel line first and then I heard something fall behind in the engine compartment. Anybody know what that might be? Mine end looks like this and I'm not sure if something important is missing.
View attachment 57692

Can you point me to where this is in the engine? I have the dreaded P018D fault code.

 

[Jschim]

View attachment 45580

Thank you! Thank you! This helped clear my P018D code! I truly appreciate it.

 

[Jimal]

Light came on yesterday. Scanned this morning, searched for the code here, and ordered parts. I really want our Pacifica to last until my GTI is paid off before replacing it and I'm deep into the DIY part of our ownership,so being able to find this information is really helpful.

 

[Jimal]

Completed the R&R of the hose and the splicing in of the new connector this afternoon. Cleared the CEL with my OBDII scanner and, so far so good. Thanks for the thread.

 

[2020HybridPac]

I have a 2020 Pacifica Hybrid. I ordered only the 68421782AA part but looking at my original sensor it looks I have the older style part. Is this even possible? My car was manufactured in 9/2020 so I shouldn’t need to splice wires? Anyone else encounter having a 2019+ that seems to be using the old part?

 

[Robagon]

Dear community,

I had the same issue with error P018C and got the replacement parts 68421782AA and 68137864AC online. Wires with connector came packed but the tube came as-is - neither cover nor plastic bag,, just a paper label attached.
I replaced the tube and rewired the connector with a soldering iron according to the manual and instructions on this forum.
And now, when I start the car I get P018C and P018D both errors. I tried other different ways to connect wires but got either both P018C + P018D errors or the car stalled.

What do you think, is there any chance the tube has a broken sensor?
Could I test the voltage/signal with a simple voltage-meter in the connector?

Any advice or recommendations are very welcome.

Were you ever able to get these codes to clear?