[jdhoover]

For all these Pacificas which have the dreaded head gasket/leaking coolant issue, wouldn't it be safer and no more expensive to replace the entire engine rather than replace a cylinder head? Dealers are quoting a cylinder head anywhere from $3,000 to $5,000. An entire used engine can be had for around $3k. Installation by an independent mechanic has to be close to the total for a cylinder head from a Chrysler dealer.

Anything missing with this approach?

Is this a recall issue? I’m in a 2017 Limited with 346,000 miles on it. 280,000 of those were put on by me.

 

[Barry A]

For all these Pacificas which have the dreaded head gasket/leaking coolant issue, wouldn't it be safer and no more expensive to replace the entire engine rather than replace a cylinder head? Dealers are quoting a cylinder head anywhere from $3,000 to $5,000. An entire used engine can be had for around $3k. Installation by an independent mechanic has to be close to the total for a cylinder head from a Chrysler dealer.

Anything missing with this approach?

My dealer has really talented mechanics who are very familiar with intricacies to Pacifica’s. My engine had a whole cooling system head gasket, radiator hoses, serpentine belt, and on and on. Boy, it’s running great. Now it took some time and patience but I feel confident on the road. I wouldn’t take a used, unknown engine with a clear head. My engine has been inspected and repaired. 🤞

 

[PacificaMinivanFan]

Is this a recall issue? I’m in a 2017 Limited with 346,000 miles on it. 280,000 of those were put on by me.

No, not a recall issue. Just curious... how in the world did you put 288k miles on your Pacifica? And, more importantly, good for you!

 

[jdhoover]

No, not a recall issue. Just curious... how in the world did you put 288k miles on your Pacifica? And, more importantly, good for you!

I use it for business. I’ve only spent about 6k in maintenance, most covered by extended warranty. That doesn’t include oil changes and tires. I love mine. Metallic black with brown leather seats and brown dash. Superb!

 

[M0Par]

On this topic and engine maintenance, does anyone have any insight into coil packs? My preference is Delphi over Mopar, however Bosch are more readily available... which may not be a good sign.

Edit: Found the answer: Spark plugs and coils

 

[Classic Owner]

On this topic and engine maintenance, does anyone have any insight into coil packs? My preference is Delphi over Mopar, however Bosch are more readily available... which may not be a good sign.

Edit: Found the answer: Spark plugs and coils

NGK for plugs.
NGK or RIPP for coils.
Delphi and Bosch are junk on these, which is why the factory Mopar coils are also junk as they're Denso cheapies.

 

[M0Par]

NGK for plugs.
NGK or RIPP for coils.
Delphi and Bosch are junk on these, which is why the factory Mopar coils are also junk as they're Denso cheapies.

I've heard bad things about Bosch but most are very high on Delphi in general in other forums. Bad experience with them? Curious why you recommend staying away. Do you see any issue running one Delphi in an odd number coil?

 

[Classic Owner]

I've heard bad things about Bosch but most are very high on Delphi in general in other forums. Bad experience with them? Curious why you recommend staying away. Do you see any issue running one Delphi in an odd number coil?

1. If you're replacing coils, replace them all, not just one.
2. Delphi electronics have never played well with Mopar products.

Honest answer here, people trying to be cheap on these vans is part of the reason so many of them have major issues early in life.
Lack of maintenance, subpar replacement parts, etc all cause more issues than they're worth and end up costing more money down the road.

Do the job once, do it right, cry once.

 

[M0Par]

1. If you're replacing coils, replace them all, not just one.
2. Delphi electronics have never played well with Mopar products.

Honest answer here, people trying to be cheap on these vans is part of the reason so many of them have major issues early in life.
Lack of maintenance, subpar replacement parts, etc all cause more issues than they're worth and end up costing more money down the road.

Do the job once, do it right, cry once.

Yeah it usually doesn't pay to cheap out on parts. The Delphi had been recommended in other forums and it was listed in the PREMIUM section of RockAuto. Not interested in cutting corners but have one on my hands and didn't want to return it unnecessarily.

 

[Classic Owner]

Yeah it usually doesn't pay to cheap out on parts. The Delphi had been recommended in other forums and it was listed in the PREMIUM section of RockAuto. Not interested in cutting corners but have one on my hands and didn't want to return it unnecessarily.

The thing you have to remember about Chryslers is "they're not other brands".
What works well for a Ford or a Honda will completely throw these out of whack.

 

[smglasbiker]

My honest theory on this after owning numerous Pentastar engines. It's mild missing caused by Mopar's use of garbage Champion plugs and subpar coils and the 100k service interval. Every single Pentastar I've done plugs on has been done at 50-60k miles because it started with a mild miss under load at idle. Something that won't throw a CEL and the average minivan driver will never notice. The plugs are always eroded to over .060" gap or more. This mild miss in turn causes excess cylinder pressures. Those excess pressures in turn take out the head gasket on the rear head as people proceed to continue driving it oblivious to the miss for another 20-30k miles. Assuming it's only the rear head due to the excess heat back there, which would also explain why it's only the FWD Pentastar that has issues. People love to blame the oil cooler and call it a "weak link", yet we've replaced exactly one across our 6 Pentastar engines. The one that was replaced was immediately after having the oil changed at a "Quick Lube" while on vacation. Even our 550k+ mile, 470k mile, and 205k mile Pentastars still have the OEM cooler. Use it properly, it doesn't fail, it's the idiots doing the oil changes that are wrecking them.

Just out of curiosity what have you been doing to mitigate this, are you changing the plugs to something better at 60k? I'm curious because my 2020 just hit 60k and I'm all about changing the plugs to a better option. Thanks!

 

[Classic Owner]

Just out of curiosity what have you been doing to mitigate this, are you changing the plugs to something better at 60k? I'm curious because my 2020 just hit 60k and I'm all about changing the plugs to a better option. Thanks!

I swap plugs to NGK Iridium or Ruthenium.
I swap coils to NGK or RIPP.

Once that's done then I go with an 80-100k interval on plugs. The coils usually never need to be done again.

 

[smglasbiker]

Thank you for the info, I will do this swap. I've used NGK Iridium since they came out in my Mercury Villager engine that has 350K. They always worked great.

 

[tjharison]

Is this a recall issue? I’m in a 2017 Limited with 346,000 miles on it. 280,000 of those were put on by me.

Have you had to replace your transmission yet?

 

[brentwasham]

Recently sold my 10 year old Pentastar in a Ram 1500 with 96K miles and original plugs/coils, ran like a top. It was the oil cooler, rack and pinion, upper control bushings, master cylinder and fuel rail sensor failures that plagued me, and also a refrigerant leak, all in short order. The engine was solid, and you know it worked hard pushing that heavy truck around.