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129.95 for an oil change with coupon ?

4.5K views 24 replies 19 participants last post by  WeKneeDragger  
#1 ·
I used to drive Ford and oil change plus tire rotation was 50 in 2018 from dealership. Recently they bumped up to 75 iirc. And now this price from Chrysler is just shocking to me… is it time I learn how to do oil change myself?…
 
#2 ·
I would have scoffed at $50!

You can make oil changes super easy and clean with one of these Fumoto valves...


It lets you attach a hose and has a shut-off valve for easy draining. I've used them on two vehicles so far and plan to add it to my Pacifica on the first oil change. The filters are very easy to change too BUT be sure to NOT overtighten the oil filter housing cap when reinstalling. It is a known failure point on these engines. Also, take note of where the O-Ring sits on the filter cap before replacing, it can easily be placed in the wrong groove.
 
#3 ·
I pay that for three oil full synthetic oil changes and three tire rotations through my local dealer with the Mopar oil change contract. They all must be used in two years or you will lose whatever remaining services are unused.
 
#4 ·
ours isn't that bad but it isn't cheap. I hate disposing of oil, but yeah I am starting to consider changing it myself. I already do the oil change for our Mitsubishi as it takes synthetic oil which shops/dealers charge a ton for... but I can buy the necessary amount for around $20 or less at wal-mart.
 
#5 ·
I used to drive Ford and oil change plus tire rotation was 50 in 2018 from dealership. Recently they bumped up to 75 iirc. And now this price from Chrysler is just shocking to me… is it time I learn how to do oil change myself?
The above responses are all good alternatives. Another is to indeed do it yourself. You can buy the correct MS-6395 certified oil and MO-349 oil filter at Walmart. Others have shared their experiences HERE.

But when you put that there oil filter cap back on... be very careful not to over tighten the darn thing. The spec on the cap says 25 newton meters (which I think is about 18 pound feet), but mine is tightened even less than that. This is one of the reasons I do my own oil changes. There have been numerous reports of owners taking their Pacificas to various shops, including Chrysler dealers, and finding out miles later that the technician overtightened the cap and cracked the oil coolers.

BTW, I also use the Topsider for changing the oil in my lawn mower and snowblower. I was able to snag one during one of the Northern Tool sales promotions at a pretty good discount.

Regarding what to do with the used oil, some take it to their local service station, but I take my used oil and filter to my county's recycling center.

 
#8 ·
WOW.
When my dealer wanted to charge $90 I asked if they had a gun. They asked why, and I said if I am going to be robbed, I want to see a gun. I offered to go as high as $60, leaving them plenty of profit, but they said no, so I do changes myself for about $40, and then I am certain of what oil was put in.
 
#9 ·
I get the Pennzoil Platinum 5 QT jug that meets the Chrysler standard and the XG11665 or Mobil 1 M1C-456A at Walmart for ~$34 total. I don't trust oil change places. I've heard too many war stories from friends.

It's a fairly easy job. Youtube videos exist.

Having the filter on the top is convenient, but also annoying because it increases the opportunity for a mess. I did craft a rag that fits right over it that makes it less likely - cut a circle in the rag that fits right around the filter. As others mentioned, don't overtighten the oil filter cap, it's plastic and so is the housing. 24mm I think?

I put in the full 5 quarts, start the engine for 20 seconds or so, shut it off and wait 20 mins to measure level.
 
#12 ·
I get the Pennzoil Platinum 5 QT jug that meets the Chrysler standard and the XG11665 or Mobil 1 M1C-456A at Walmart for ~$34 total.
This combo is $35 + tax where I’m at, when the pennz plat goes on sale. It’s normally ~$43+tax. Dealership has coupon for 2 full sun changes for $100. Why do the work when they’re doing the warrantied work for essentially free?
 
#11 ·
That seems like an extremely high price, unless they are doing extra services along with the oil change. I comparison shopped last year, and my dealer and an independent shop both quoted $65-85. I went with the dealer because it's a much better place to wait for the vehicle: comfortable waiting area, free coffee, Wi-fi,etc. I recently got a coupon from Chrysler for an oil change priced at $59.95. I've got an appointment to take advantage of that later this month.
 
#14 ·
When I purchased my van the dealer promised free lifetime oil changes- it was their policy for all new car sales. I have had 3 oil changes so far, they never tried to upsell me anything. Once I asked for a rotation, and the price was reasonable.
 
#18 ·
Yes. It's not hard and there are several good you tube video procedures. You will need ramps. I have heavy duty plastic ones with a generous lip to keep you from inching up too far. 2 metric sockets for drain and filter, an oil drain pan, funnel and some rags.

5 qts synthetic is under $30 at Walmart. Filter is about $10. Even with start up costs you'll save $ the 2st time and you won't have drop off your van and,/or hang around.
 
#20 ·
The main reason as stated above to change your own oil is shop incompetence. I have so many friends with stripped drain plugs, cracked oil coolers and the nut broke off of the oil filter cap.

I have $55 plastic rhino ramps(the heavy 7000lb suv version) that I pull the front of the car on and a enclosed oil pan the oil drains into. The Castrol Edge Extended Performance 5w-20 Advanced full synthetic motor oil is $29 shipped on Amazon (yes I use 5W-20 not the 0W-20 because it meets Chrysler MS 6395, and I don't like 0W-20. Napa Gold Wix filters are a deal twice a year on the Napa Filter Sale, I always buy six or so. I change the oil every 5k (the oil life gauge is usually at 20-40% left).

The 25nm torque spec on the plastic Filter cap is ridiculous. Put the new o-ring on the cap included with the filter, put a thin layer of oil on the o-ring and screw the cap back in till you feel the o-ring engage, the just give it a slight squeaky snug and you're done. I should actually measure the Newton meters once, but I bet it is less than 10nm. Filter cap always comes off nice and is never seized. Also nowhere close to snapping the nut off the top or cracking the oil cooler. I always put a big wad of paper towels to lay the cap and filter on when I pull the cap with filter. Don't remove the filter from the cap until you are over the trash can as some oil stays in there.

I also do not over tighten the drain plug at the bottom of the engine. I also always put it back in by hand and moderately snug it up. The only thing to watch is the oil really flies out if the engine is hot, so you need splash guards and to be strategic where you put the pan when draining if you don't want any on the ground. My pan has a pour spout with a cap, so I put the old oil back in the container the new oil came in and drop it off at Walmart next time I'm there. This car is also easy because it takes exactly 5qt jug.

If you get your pans and ramps squared away it can literally take 15mins to change the oil on these not moving fast. It's also pretty satisfying. Don't forget to put your car in run without the engine running to reset the oil meter by holding ok.

My last van had 350,000 miles on the same non-rebuilt engine, so I consider this process pretty good for long vehicle life. I don't think this engine is built as well as my last one(Nissan VG30E), but I've got my fingers crossed.