2 words:
Independent shop.

 

I am getting CEL DTC P018C which is a power train code and refers to the Fuel pressure sensor.
I am a couple of months out and 3k miles outside my basic warranty. I have read some people report this is and some people report this isn't covered under power train warranty.

Please Help

@ChryslerCares

I currently have the exact same issue. Code P018C.

I am just 300 miles over my 36,000 mile warranty. I am planning on replacing the fuel pressure sensor myself because the dealership price is ridiculous. I've seen some videos on youtube for how to replace the sensor on a Ram 1500, but I am not sure if that totally translates to the Pacifica or not.

Does anyone have the proper instructions write-up, or possibly a video link for how to replace this sensor on a Pacifica?

Mine is a 2017 Pacifica Touring L, non-hybrid.

Thanks.

 

I am getting CEL DTC P018C which is a power train code and refers to the Fuel pressure sensor.
I am a couple of months out and 3k miles outside my basic warranty. I have read some people report this is and some people report this isn't covered under power train warranty.

I was getting all sorts of bad symptoms due to a bad battery like Service Shifter messages and lights out on the shifter. I replaced the battery and the shifter problem went away.
But I am still pulling P018C.

I have two quotes from dealers to replace the Fuel rail sensor at $240 and $289. And they still want to charge me $120 diagnostic fee. I know they are expensive.
Realistically how much should this cost? The dealer told me the part was $36 and they have it in stock. So, they want $253 to install it.

I have been through so much with this car, that this is just one more thing I can't deal with.
Transmission banging, sliding door power fails randomly, turn wheel and steering sticks.

Please Help

@ChryslerCares

I currently have the exact same issue. Code P018C.

I am just 300 miles over my 36,000 mile warranty. I am planning on replacing the fuel pressure sensor myself because the dealership price is ridiculous. I've seen some videos on youtube for how to replace the sensor on a Ram 1500, but I am not sure if that totally translates to the Pacifica or not.

Does anyone have the proper instructions write-up, or possibly a video link for how to replace this sensor on a Pacifica?

Mine is a 2017 Pacifica Touring L, non-hybrid.

Thanks.

Hi mjr0483 and Big Jimmy,

We understand that you are both out of warranty but we would like to help you get this addressed by your dealer if you plan to go this route. Please send us a private message so we can assist you further.

Lydia
Chrysler Social Care Specialist

 

That’s simply awesome customer service. The way it should be. Big hats off to chrysler cares.

 

I am getting CEL DTC P018C which is a power train code and refers to the Fuel pressure sensor.
I am a couple of months out and 3k miles outside my basic warranty.....

Please Help

@ChryslerCares

I currently have the exact same issue. Code P018C.....

Thanks.

Hi mjr0483 and Big Jimmy,

We understand that you are both out of warranty but we would like to help you get this addressed by your dealer if you plan to go this route. Please send us a private message so we can assist you further.

Lydia
Chrysler Social Care Specialist

Lydia,

Thank you for your quick response. A PM has been sent.

Sincerely,
Big Jimmy

 

Mine just came on the other day. Have an appointment to get it fixed. I sure hope it isn't ridiculously expensive!!

 

Okay folks, if you are coming to this thread with a P018C code and are out of warranty, here is your fix...at least the one that worked for me. OEM part 52030445AA fuel supply tube and pressure sensor. You can find this part on Amazon or at your local dealer (O'Rileys didn't show an aftermarket part for it yet) and it is actually quite easy to change out yourself. Open the hood and it is right on top, just left of center. There are a few connection points, the hardest to deal with will be the closest one. You just need a small flathead screwdriver to release the plastic clips on the old tube. The closest one gave me the most trouble because I had to release the blue clip and pull it all the way off, then there was a white clip on the bottom that didn't want to let go. Once I released the connections further back in the engine, I was able to rotate the tube and get the white clip to release. There WILL BE some fuel in the tube so have a rag handy to catch it.

Once you have the old tube off, the new one goes on quite easily. My check engine light stayed on for a few short trips, I think it was the 4th trip that the light had turned off, so don't worry if it doesn't go off immediately. This cost me under $40 for the part and took about 10 minutes to change. Sure beats the dealership prices.

Oh, don't try the repair after the engine has been running, it's freaking hot right where you need to work. Let it cool and have at it.

 

Aren't fuel system components part of the emissions warranty?

 

That’s what I hoped but the dealership said no. A quick glance at the emissions warranty suggests everything is covered for 2 years/24k miles but only certain major components after that up until 8 years.

 

The 3 yr/36k basic warranty would cover it but again I’m just past 3 years on that even though miles are low.

 

I have the same issue at 28k miles but a few months past the 36 months. Will you help me?

 

The forum members cannot help. But if you send a Personal Message to @ChryslerCares they may be able to assist you. Just hover your cursor over their name and then click on Message.

 

HELP!

Same issue, just over 3 yr/36k!!!

Part 52030445AA is no longer available you now need to order 68421782AA and 68137864AC.

The 2nd part is a little bit of wire and a new connector. Apparently they discontinued the fuel pressure sensor originally used, and now there is a different one.

Can anyone look up the wiring order of the 3 wires? As I have to splice the new connector on, just need to make sure the 3 wires are in the correct order.

 

HELP!

Same issue, just over 3 yr/36k!!!

Part 52030445AA is no longer available you now need to order 68421782AA and 68137864AC.

The 2nd part is a little bit of wire and a new connector. Apparently they discontinued the fuel pressure sensor originally used, and now there is a different one.

Can anyone look up the wiring order of the 3 wires? As I have to splice the new connector on, just need to make sure the 3 wires are in the correct order.

I spliced mine in and connected it and got a high voltage code this time. Don't know what I did wrong the middle wire was a ground on the old harness with the white stripe I just tryed to keep it the same colors as the old..didn't work

 

I had the same issue. Looks like whoever is making the update part jumbled the wires. I Tried every possible wiring combination until I got good signal. What worked for me on the 3 updated sensors I have as I suspected bad parts is wiring Blue to Pin 1. White to Pin 3. Yellow to Pin 2. If you have your old connector Blue to where the yellow was. White to where the blue was. Yellow to where the White was.
With this I have no codes, roughly 2.5 volts on the signal wire with key on and pump primed and reading approx 50 psi frp on the scanner.

Also a side note the data pids on the snapon scanners and another 3rd party scanner I have were listed as Variable speed fuel pump volts, and variable speed fuel pump actual pressure. Kinda threw me for a loop as I was looking for a fuel rail pressure pid or something like that.

Hope this helps! I couldn't find a single updated schematic, tsb, or preliminary Info campaign with the updated schematic. I'll be calling the local dealer and seeing if they can pass it up the line as well as posting to identifix

 

I had the same issue. Looks like whoever is making the update part jumbled the wires. I Tried every possible wiring combination until I got good signal. What worked for me on the 3 updated sensors I have as I suspected bad parts is wiring Blue to Pin 3. White to Pin 1. Yellow to Pin 2. If you have your old connector Blue to where the yellow was. White to where the blue was. Yellow to where the White was.
With this I have no codes, roughly 2.5 volts on the signal wire with key on and pump primed and reading approx 50 psi frp on the scanner.

Also a side note the data pids on the snapon scanners and another 3rd party scanner I have were listed as Variable speed fuel pump volts, and variable speed fuel pump actual pressure. Kinda threw me for a loop as I was looking for a fuel rail pressure pid or something like that.

Hope this helps! I couldn't find a single updated schematic, tsb, or preliminary Info campaign with the updated schematic. I'll be calling the local dealer and seeing if they can pass it up the line as well as posting to identifix

So the wire orientation for the new updated connector is blue yellow white? For pins 123? From the original connector that was yellow white blue.

 

Smitty u sir are a life saver Thank you Thank you thank you!!!

 

Cool thank you. Yea I had it in the original order y/w/b and it then threw a circuit high code. So I’ll try it b/y/w. Thanks again

 

Yep blue yellow white is the right order ..cleared the code didn't come back on ...every thing is working as it should!!!

 

There are a number of things that do not allow the ESS system to not function (ambient temp, engine temp, Aux battery voltage low, etc.) are you sure the Aux battery's voltage is not low? Could you have blown a fuse?

 

The two batteries were replaced not more the 6month ago and I didn’t find any blown fuses. I’m wondering if it’s a software issue like if it needs to be updated.

 

Huuum, does seem strange. I thought I had read somewhere that some things just take a few power cycles and maybe driven to reset, but that doesn't seem like it should be associated with your A/C or your ESS.

Hopefully others with more knowledge will respond.

 

I have the same code showing up (P018C) - fuel pressure sensor on my 2017 Pacifica. I had purchased powertrain extended warranty on it. Will this issue be covered under extended powertrain warranty? Does anyone know.

 

I have the same issue with my 2017 Pacifica, I appreciate the information in this thread and will use to hopefully resolve my issue as well. As an aside,
It is 4 months post warranty with only 28,000 miles on it, WELL below the 36,000 miles that goes along with that evidently tight 3 year warranty period. This van was purchased as being ideal to have modified to fit a wheel chair in the back for my daughter. My wife and I have only purchased Chevy products over our 30 plus year marriage. I contacted Chrysler customer care to inform them of the issue to see if they could extend the courtesy to cover this through a dealer given the low mileage, i was told they could not by a nice customer service rep. I sent a follow up email to their customer care, really just letting them know their brand loyalty was disappointing and to inform them I had a similar issue with a Chevy post Warranty awhile back that was covered with very little issue. This will be my one and only Chrysler purchase, buyers beware!

 

I've attached a STAR case (S2014000001) that people will find very helpful when needing to perform this repair. There is a newer revision (dated 8/7/2020) of this same STAR case for the same issue, but the older one is more helpful because it mentions the potential for the P018D (Fuel Pressure Sensor "B" Circuit High) code if the wiring isn't changed as necessary. The information the two documents provide is otherwise identical. Moderators, can we move this thread to the Engine and Technical Discussion section of the forum?

 

Could someone point me to how I do the fuel system release procedure. Don't want to get fuel everywhere. Also is there a way to put the existing wires into the new plug without soldering or cutting wires?

 

I don't know what the official procedure is, but I would just start the engine, and pull fuse F43 (Fuel Pump Motor, 20A) while the engine is running. The engine should stall out shortly thereafter within a few seconds when the fuel injectors run out of fuel. Then, turn the ignition OFF and go to work. Don't reinsert the fuse until the work is complete.

Look at the STAR case I attached in post #34 above. It tells you everything you need to know to do the job right with regard to the wiring.

 

I have a 2017 Pacifica with 49k miles. Threw the P018C code. Remote start was disabled due to this code. Bought the fuel rail sensor kit. Had to cut off the old harness and replace with a new one to accommodate the new sensor. Wiring can be tricky. Wired it wrong and got P018D code. Rewired it according to the PDF file above. Just pay close attention to the correct wiring procedure. After I wired them correctly, code was gone and remote start was enabled. Again...pay close attention to the correct wiring scheme. Quick connect on the new fuel tube is slightly different. Just make sure the red clip is in the up position....push the connector on the tube over the lip and it will click. Then push down on red clip to lock. Hope this helps.

 

The wiring for the old connectors. I did not pay attention and I cut the harness. I wired it as Blue(old) to Pin 1. White(Old) to Pin 3. Yellow(Old) to Pin 2. Is this correct?

Please help I have a state inspection on Thursday

 

after 3 days of driving I still get the check engine light. I disconnect the battery and reconnect it goes away. Once I turn the car off and on it comes back

 

Sounds like you have wired it incorrectly. Pay close attention to the diagram. I wired it wrong my first pass.

 

Yeah. That is the way I have it wired. I am going to run it up to auto zone and check the code again

 

 

Are you getting a C or D code?

Getting a P018D "Indicates that the fuel pressure sensor 'B' electrical circuit was out of range or had a performance problem for a predetermined period of time"