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My neighbor has almost the exact same 2021 hybrid. When covid doesn't make it awkward I will listen in his.

I have turned the base to -6 and turned the surround off. I got it as good as o can given what is there.

I still need to research 6x9 woofers to see which are the richest and least punchy (don't really know how else to describe it).

I may try a high end shop that can give it a listen. Crutchfield is only a couple of hours away.

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Discussion starter · #43 ·
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I used a butter knife lol It popped up with ease.
View attachment 49701
Yeah it comes up pretty easy. The fasteners near the middle on mine were a little stubborn. It came off pretty easily aside from that. Did you install just the Kenwood 3.5s or did you install the 3.5/6x9 set like I did? Either way, which system does your van have (base/Alpine/HK) and what do you think of the difference?

I'm still very happy with the results of my upgrades. It's literally a night and day difference. The soundstage/imaging is outstanding compared to before. I've been thinking about installing an aftermarket amp for a little more power/volume, but just can't push myself to do it.
 
Yeah it comes up pretty easy. The fasteners near the middle on mine were a little stubborn. It came off pretty easily aside from that. Did you install just the Kenwood 3.5s or did you install the 3.5/6x9 set like I did? Either way, which system does your van have (base/Alpine/HK) and what do you think of the difference?

I'm still very happy with the results of my upgrades. It's literally a night and day difference. The soundstage/imaging is outstanding compared to before. I've been thinking about installing an aftermarket amp for a little more power/volume, but just can't push myself to do it.
I have the base system. I only went with the 3.5's but they really woke up the vocals and high's. My future plans are the replace the front door speakers with the Focal RSE-130 's, a JL Audio CP110LG-TW1-2 sub since I need trunk space and an AudioControl D-5.1300 pushing it all. Plus while the doors are apart I'll sound deaden them.
 
I have the HiFi system and replacing the dash speakers helped. I tried to swap out the front door 6x9s and found that they only get a little base and nothing else, so would not affect sound.
Want to try the sliding doors but am afraid of the disassembly.

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Great post guys.I will attempt to replace door 6x9 (alpine) with audison ap960 (guess thats the best choice since they are crossed for mid woofer duty)and sound dead them.
 
Replaced front speakers only to Audison ap960 (they wont fit ,trimming is required) but difference is huge ....will do sliding doors or rear hatch next and compare below again to see how.much more can be achieved in 30-5000Hz range
Image
 
Thanks OP, just put the Kenwoods in the dash on my Wife's Pachy and WOW, what a difference...you'd think I replaced all 4 doors too or opted for the premium sound system at from the factory. For anyone interested, Crutchfield has the best price (same as Amazon but includes wiring adapters for free).

 
Digging this very helpful and informational old thread out for the similar upgrade setup done by the thread starter freddief73.

My question is regarding the speakers installed position associated with their type.

Based on thread starter freddief73's setup, the front doors have component 6X9 speakers, while the sliding doors have coaxial 3-way 6X9 ones. The 3-way speaker has wider frequency band than component one.

Can I install 3-way speakers on both front doors and sliding doors, and rear liftgate all together?

freddief73's upgrade setup may have his particular reason, like acoustics or speaker availability, since he ordered speaker set, 6X9 component and 3.5" mid-range as one package.
 
Digging this very helpful and informational old thread out for the similar upgrade setup done by the thread starter freddief73.

My question is regarding the speakers installed position associated with their type.

Based on thread starter freddief73's setup, the front doors have component 6X9 speakers, while the sliding doors have coaxial 3-way 6X9 ones. The 3-way speaker has wider frequency band than component one.

Can I install 3-way speakers on both front doors and sliding doors, and rear liftgate all together?

freddief73's upgrade setup may have his particular reason, like acoustics or speaker availability, since he ordered speaker set, 6X9 component and 3.5" mid-range as one package.
I believe the reason 3 ways aren't generally put up front is that you have the dash speakers so they aren't needed and perform better (up front) without them.
 
Discussion starter · #56 · (Edited)
Can I install 3-way speakers on both front doors and sliding doors, and rear liftgate all together?
The short answer is yes, but how it will ultimately sound depends on which factory system you have. The base audio system doesn't have any speakers in the liftgate, but the Alpine & HK systems do. If you have one of the latter, installing anything more than a woofer in a 6x9 opening is pointless. The factory amp more than likely applies a high pass filter to the smaller 3.5" speakers and a low pass filter to the larger 6x9 speakers. The base system sends all four channels a full range signal (the dash and front door speakers share the front two channels).

I would discourage anyone with the base audio system from installing full-range speakers in the front doors if you're also replacing the dash speakers. Any dash speakers you install will be significantly louder than the original ones. Full-range speakers in the front doors in addition to that would be deafening. I initially planned on installing another set of the Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C components in the sliding doors. I opted not to because I was worried it would mess up the front sound stage. The 3.5" speaker opening in the sliding doors is basically right below the front occupants' ears. I ended up going with the Kickers because they were relatively inexpensive and I knew they sounded great.
 
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......

I initially planned on installing another set of the Kenwood Excelon KFC-XP6903C components in the sliding doors. I opted not to because I was worried it would mess up the front sound stage. The 3.5" speaker opening in the sliding doors is basically right below the front occupants' ears. I ended up going with the Kickers because they were relatively inexpensive and I knew they sounded great.
Great info!

So you installed 6X9" component speakers on sliding doors instead of 3-way speakers or 3.5" + 6X9"?

I have same 6-speaker factory audio setup as yours, what size speakers should I install on liftgate in I want go further?
 
Discussion starter · #58 · (Edited)
Great info!

So you installed 6X9" component speakers on sliding doors instead of 3-way speakers or 3.5" + 6X9"?

I have same 6-speaker factory audio setup as yours, what size speakers should I install on liftgate in I want go further?
I installed 3-way speakers instead of the 3.5" + 6x9 components in the sliding doors.

You can install a pair of 6x9s in the liftgate, but you will either need to buy a liftgate panel with openings or cut your own openings. You would also need to run your own wire. The speaker mounting provisions should be in the framework behind the panel.
 
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Use the adapters as they come and you'll be fine. They already have the proper configuration to correct the problem. If you don't use the adapters, you need to connect the speaker wires backwards. Either way, as long as the speakers are properly connected, you won't have any problems.
I switched out my dash and front door speakers (6-speaker base) and now I’m wondering if my wiring is correct.

I did the dash speakers together and then tested, they made noise so continued.

Next I switched out only one front door speaker and tested. It sounded empty, but when I put in the other side the sound filled out. I guess this means that the polarity/phasing of the wiring was reversed (I’ve read the other threads).

I haven’t changed the rear speakers. Maybe I will, maybe I won’t.

The system sounds pretty good. But I’m wondering if I should have switched the wires in the harnesses? I have 72-7902 and 72-6514.
I can hear the engine, but I’m not sure if it’s actually louder than it was, or whether I’m psychosomatically giving myself this symptom because of having read these discussions 🤣. It’s not loud - but it is there - and I have previously noted how quiet the vehicle is.

Maybe the ANC is reversed, or fighting with itself, or maybe I’m just being paranoid? Is there a way without taking everything apart to figure this out?
 
Discussion starter · #60 · (Edited)
I switched out my dash and front door speakers (6-speaker base) and now I’m wondering if my wiring is correct.

I did the dash speakers together and then tested, they made noise so continued.

Next I switched out only one front door speaker and tested. It sounded empty, but when I put in the other side the sound filled out. I guess this means that the polarity/phasing of the wiring was reversed (I’ve read the other threads).

I haven’t changed the rear speakers. Maybe I will, maybe I won’t.

The system sounds pretty good. But I’m wondering if I should have switched the wires in the harnesses? I have 72-7902 and 72-6514.
I can hear the engine, but I’m not sure if it’s actually louder than it was, or whether I’m psychosomatically giving myself this symptom because of having read these discussions 🤣. It’s not loud - but it is there - and I have previously noted how quiet the vehicle is.

Maybe the ANC is reversed, or fighting with itself, or maybe I’m just being paranoid? Is there a way without taking everything apart to figure this out?
You need to reverse the polarity of the 72-6514 adapters. The connectors are identical to the 72-6515 adapters I used, but have the wrong polarity so you need to switch the (+) and (-) around. That should fix your problem. Right now the ANC signal being produced by the speakers is amplifying the engine noise instead of cancelling it out like it should.
 
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