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You are correct i had my numbers for the pinout backwards. The colors are correct though. Ive edited my post to fix them.
Brain was knot by the time i figured it out and wrote the post
So I’m running into a problem I changed the wires around to what you said was the correct order then I cleared the code and drove the van the check engine light stayed off BUT as soon as I turn off the van and start it again the light comes back of with the code p018d circuit high. Any thoughts why it’s doing this. Van runs fine.
 
So I’m running into a problem I changed the wires around to what you said was the correct order then I cleared the code and drove the van the check engine light stayed off BUT as soon as I turn off the van and start it again the light comes back of with the code p018d circuit high. Any thoughts why it’s doing this. Van runs fine.
Also just throwing this out there. I disconnected the battery to check the wires to the pcm after I put everything back. The auto start/stop system is not working and the ac is not getting cold the clutch won’t engage. Any idea why this all happened?
 
There are a number of things that do not allow the ESS system to not function (ambient temp, engine temp, Aux battery voltage low, etc.) are you sure the Aux battery's voltage is not low? Could you have blown a fuse?
 
There are a number of things that do not allow the ESS system to not function (ambient temp, engine temp, Aux battery voltage low, etc.) are you sure the Aux battery's voltage is not low? Could you have blown a fuse?
The two batteries were replaced not more the 6month ago and I didn’t find any blown fuses. I’m wondering if it’s a software issue like if it needs to be updated.
 
Huuum, does seem strange. I thought I had read somewhere that some things just take a few power cycles and maybe driven to reset, but that doesn't seem like it should be associated with your A/C or your ESS.

Hopefully others with more knowledge will respond.
 
I have the same code showing up (P018C) - fuel pressure sensor on my 2017 Pacifica. I had purchased powertrain extended warranty on it. Will this issue be covered under extended powertrain warranty? Does anyone know.
 
I had the same issue. Looks like whoever is making the update part jumbled the wires. I Tried every possible wiring combination until I got good signal. What worked for me on the 3 updated sensors I have as I suspected bad parts is wiring Blue to Pin 1. White to Pin 3. Yellow to Pin 2. If you have your old connector Blue to where the yellow was. White to where the blue was. Yellow to where the White was.
With this I have no codes, roughly 2.5 volts on the signal wire with key on and pump primed and reading approx 50 psi frp on the scanner.

Also a side note the data pids on the snapon scanners and another 3rd party scanner I have were listed as Variable speed fuel pump volts, and variable speed fuel pump actual pressure. Kinda threw me for a loop as I was looking for a fuel rail pressure pid or something like that.

Hope this helps! I couldn't find a single updated schematic, tsb, or preliminary Info campaign with the updated schematic. I'll be calling the local dealer and seeing if they can pass it up the line as well as posting to identifix
Smutty if u were here I would buy u a beer!!!Has not run in 2 was and fired right up! U man, R a genius!!!!!
 
I had the same issue. Looks like whoever is making the update part jumbled the wires. I Tried every possible wiring combination until I got good signal. What worked for me on the 3 updated sensors I have as I suspected bad parts is wiring Blue to Pin 1. White to Pin 3. Yellow to Pin 2. If you have your old connector Blue to where the yellow was. White to where the blue was. Yellow to where the White was.
With this I have no codes, roughly 2.5 volts on the signal wire with key on and pump primed and reading approx 50 psi frp on the scanner.

Also a side note the data pids on the snapon scanners and another 3rd party scanner I have were listed as Variable speed fuel pump volts, and variable speed fuel pump actual pressure. Kinda threw me for a loop as I was looking for a fuel rail pressure pid or something like that.

Hope this helps! I couldn't find a single updated schematic, tsb, or preliminary Info campaign with the updated schematic. I'll be calling the local dealer and seeing if they can pass it up the line as well as posting to identifix
I had the same issue. Looks like whoever is making the update part jumbled the wires. I Tried every possible wiring combination until I got good signal. What worked for me on the 3 updated sensors I have as I suspected bad parts is wiring Blue to Pin 1. White to Pin 3. Yellow to Pin 2. If you have your old connector Blue to where the yellow was. White to where the blue was. Yellow to where the White was.
With this I have no codes, roughly 2.5 volts on the signal wire with key on and pump primed and reading approx 50 psi frp on the scanner.

Also a side note the data pids on the snapon scanners and another 3rd party scanner I have were listed as Variable speed fuel pump volts, and variable speed fuel pump actual pressure. Kinda threw me for a loop as I was looking for a fuel rail pressure pid or something like that.

Hope this helps! I couldn't find a single updated schematic, tsb, or preliminary Info campaign with the updated schematic. I'll be calling the local dealer and seeing if they can pass it up the line as well as posting to identifix
spell check got me Smitty!!!!!
 
spell check got me Smitty!!!!!
You can always edit an existing post by clicking on the three dots to the top right of the post you wish to edit and click on Edit.
 
I have the same issue with my 2017 Pacifica, I appreciate the information in this thread and will use to hopefully resolve my issue as well. As an aside,
It is 4 months post warranty with only 28,000 miles on it, WELL below the 36,000 miles that goes along with that evidently tight 3 year warranty period. This van was purchased as being ideal to have modified to fit a wheel chair in the back for my daughter. My wife and I have only purchased Chevy products over our 30 plus year marriage. I contacted Chrysler customer care to inform them of the issue to see if they could extend the courtesy to cover this through a dealer given the low mileage, i was told they could not by a nice customer service rep. I sent a follow up email to their customer care, really just letting them know their brand loyalty was disappointing and to inform them I had a similar issue with a Chevy post Warranty awhile back that was covered with very little issue. This will be my one and only Chrysler purchase, buyers beware!
 
I've attached a STAR case (S2014000001) that people will find very helpful when needing to perform this repair. There is a newer revision (dated 8/7/2020) of this same STAR case for the same issue, but the older one is more helpful because it mentions the potential for the P018D (Fuel Pressure Sensor "B" Circuit High) code if the wiring isn't changed as necessary. The information the two documents provide is otherwise identical. Moderators, can we move this thread to the Engine and Technical Discussion section of the forum?
 

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Could someone point me to how I do the fuel system release procedure. Don't want to get fuel everywhere. Also is there a way to put the existing wires into the new plug without soldering or cutting wires?
I don't know what the official procedure is, but I would just start the engine, and pull fuse F43 (Fuel Pump Motor, 20A) while the engine is running. The engine should stall out shortly thereafter within a few seconds when the fuel injectors run out of fuel. Then, turn the ignition OFF and go to work. Don't reinsert the fuse until the work is complete.

Look at the STAR case I attached in post #34 above. It tells you everything you need to know to do the job right with regard to the wiring.
 
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I don't know what the official procedure is, but I would just start the engine, and pull fuse F43 (Fuel Pump Motor, 20A) while the engine is running. The engine should stall out shortly thereafter within a few seconds when the fuel injectors run out of fuel. Then, turn the ignition OFF and go to work. Don't reinsert the fuse until the work is complete.
I just released pressure after I covered area with old beach towel! Not much gas came out. You will have to get the replacement connector kit cause the pins are different. Use the tin pins in the kit and pigtail the new wires to existing color and, of coarse, the order on new connector is different!!!!
 
Could someone point me to how I do the fuel system release procedure. Don't want to get fuel everywhere. Also is there a way to put the existing wires into the new plug without soldering or cutting wires?
There is a kit that comes with a new connector and the pins on the end are different and will not interchange with old pins!! Also, further back in discussion is the correct order of wiring for the new connector.
 
I have a 2017 Pacifica with 49k miles. Threw the P018C code. Remote start was disabled due to this code. Bought the fuel rail sensor kit. Had to cut off the old harness and replace with a new one to accommodate the new sensor. Wiring can be tricky. Wired it wrong and got P018D code. Rewired it according to the PDF file above. Just pay close attention to the correct wiring procedure. After I wired them correctly, code was gone and remote start was enabled. Again...pay close attention to the correct wiring scheme. Quick connect on the new fuel tube is slightly different. Just make sure the red clip is in the up position....push the connector on the tube over the lip and it will click. Then push down on red clip to lock. Hope this helps.
 
I have a 2017 Pacifica with 49k miles. Threw the P018C code. Remote start was disabled due to this code. Bought the fuel rail sensor kit. Had to cut off the old harness and replace with a new one to accommodate the new sensor. Wiring can be tricky. Wired it wrong and got P018D code. Rewired it according to the PDF file above. Just pay close attention to the correct wiring procedure. After I wired them correctly, code was gone and remote start was enabled. Again...pay close attention to the correct wiring scheme. Quick connect on the new fuel tube is slightly different. Just make sure the red clip is in the up position....push the connector on the tube over the lip and it will click. Then push down on red clip to lock. Hope this helps.

The wiring for the old connectors. I did not pay attention and I cut the harness. I wired it as Blue(old) to Pin 1. White(Old) to Pin 3. Yellow(Old) to Pin 2. Is this correct?

Please help I have a state inspection on Thursday
 
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