Hi- according to the owners manual the clicking noise is normal. I attached a photo of the section where it mentions that. Hopefully that’s the clicking noise that you are experiencing. My car is still the dealer but when I get it back I’ll see if I hear the noise also.

 

Thank you for the link. Unfortunately, our clicking occurs when the vehicle is in the OFF position, and the manual states the normal clicking occurs in the ON position. I wish it was the same clicking!

 

Its the recirculation actuator motor above your passenger side cabin filter behind the glove box

 

Do you have a HDD Connected to the USB? And what part in the dash is clicking? Behind the display? Instruments?

 

No, nothing plugged in. Sounds like it comes from behind the radio, center of the dash.

 

I have the same sound happening. It's a very rapid rhythmic clicking sound in the dash.

 

Possibly an air flow shutter in one of the air vents that is malfunctioning?

 

I've had a sound when the car is on a few times that I suspect might be this. It goes away when the climate control is turned off. It has yet to last more than 10-15 seconds so far, no point bringing it to the dealer until it lasts long enough for them to reproduce it.

 

I've had a sound when the car is on a few times that I suspect might be this. It goes away when the climate control is turned off. It has yet to last more than 10-15 seconds so far, no point bringing it to the dealer until it lasts long enough for them to reproduce it.

Hi Jmm11 and ogremustcrush,
I understand how this might be concerning. If you are able to replicate this concern and would like to have your dealers look into this, you can also send us a private message where we can provide our extra assistance while your vehicles are being serviced.
Lydia
Chrysler Social Care Specialist

 

Unfortunately Chrysler holds zero responsibility in these and related matters. The nice “PR” comment from Lydia is pleasant but nothing more. I have worked with Chrysler for more than 20 years and they will not spend a penny of their $ to assist in repairs or any other malfunctions unless they are forced to by BAR (bureau or automotive repair). The only way to get help from them is to report everything you have a problem with to https://www.nhtsa.gov look up your issues on this website. That is your power! If you have the $ pay for the extended warranty because Chrysler WILL NOT HELP AT ALL.

Best of luck.

 

I do have the same issue now on my 2018 Pacifica... have you found the issue behind this noise?

 

This issue has been resolved in the following thread.

Pumping or Gear turning noise while parked and plugged in.

Pumping or Gear turning noise while off/parked and plugged in. We have been noticing that the Hybrid has a low pumping noise that seems to come from the center of the dash board when the van is parked and charging. When I turn on the van the noise stops. It seems like this noise only starting...

www.pacificaforums.com

 

My 2018 PHLimited does the same thing. I turn off power to van and clicking/tapping noise begins. It goes on for approximately two minutes if I sit and listen. When I open door, it begins making noise again and continues to make noise for approximately five minutes.

Also, my right side rear slide door will not lock. Dealer repaired with new part stating it was electrical issue...it worked when I picked up van from dealer, but not the next day or thereafter.

 

My 2018 PHLimited does the same thing. I turn off power to van and clicking/tapping noise begins. It goes on for approximately two minutes if I sit and listen. When I open door, it begins making noise again and continues to make noise for approximately five minutes. Also, my right side rear slide door will not lock. Dealer repaired with new part stating it was electrical issue...it worked when I picked up van from dealer, but not the next day or thereafter.

Yes I have this same dash noise/issue.

 

If your van is a hybrid you will notice that there are things that happen , and you’ll hear when you shut it off . There is also things that happen in the instrument panel that happen when you shut car off as well . If you plug in your van open the door and sit in the seat and wait for the dashboard cluster , top of the ip charging status to begin charging and listen what happens from the underside of the floor pan ..

 

We had exactly the same clicking. As soon as you turned the vehicle off, or before "starting it" once unlocked. There was a solution on this forum - something to do with the air recirculation flap not coming to rest in the right position and "fluttering" back and forth. We printed the info from this forum and took it to our dealer and they fixed it, its not been a problem since... It was all the information in the thread above that m0ebius604 linked. Now, if we could get the touchscreen to remain functional for more than a few days before it stops responding to touch, we would be there.....

 

hi yes in the last few months I have had the exact same issues on my 2018 hybrid also. Dealership says this is normal...however wasn't always doing this. Very frustrating as soon will be out of warrantee and won't be covered if becomes worse. Not happy 😡

 

This is NOT normal and is a known issue. It is the servo for the recirculate/fresh air selector. Mine has bee doing this for over a year when the vehicle is just shut off or you open a door. Would have already had it fixed if not for the pandemic as the part was hard to get until the beginning of the year. Told my dealer to replace it at the same time when they get the parts for my hybrid recall. Currently, they can not get the parts for the recall.

Get it fixed before your warranty is out. you will get charged 200+ otherwise. Find another dealer if you have to.

 

To easily verify if this is a faulty HVAC recirculation actuator, perform a cabin air filter inspection (you probably need to do that anyway). You can easily see the recirc baffle directly above the cabin air filter. If it flutters for a few minutes and several hundred cycles after a door is opened or the car is turned off like mine did then you have found the problem. This seems to afflict the 2018 Pachy more than any other. The baffle is a zero thrust rotary valve stretching across and above the cabin air filter that pivots to the forward position for recirc and to the rear most position for fresh air. It apparently is moved to a mid position when the car is turned off. A failed actuator hunts when the position feedback signal is uncertain. It continues to hunt as long as the signal is uncertain and its driver is active.

In my Limited Pachy, it takes about 3 minutes after the car is shut down for the driver circuit to timeout and be inactivated. This driver is reactivated when a door is opened and perhaps at other events. It has been suggested that some of the timeout events can be manipulated in a settings mode. If anyone has knowledge of this settings procedure, it would be good to share in this thread.

 

To easily verify if this is a faulty HVAC recirculation actuator, perform a cabin air filter inspection (you probably need to do that anyway). You can easily see the recirc baffle directly above the cabin air filter. If it flutters for a few minutes and several hundred cycles after a door is opened or the car is turned off like mine did then you have found the problem. This seems to afflict the 2018 Pachy more than any other. The baffle is a zero thrust rotary valve stretching across and above the cabin air filter that pivots to the forward position for recirc and to the rear most position for fresh air. It apparently is moved to a mid position when the car is turned off. A failed actuator hunts when the position feedback signal is uncertain. It continues to hunt as long as the signal is uncertain and its driver is active. In my Limited Pachy, it takes about 3 minutes after the car is shut down for the driver circuit to timeout and be inactivated. This driver is reactivated when a door is opened and perhaps at other events. It has been suggested that some of the timeout events can be manipulated in a settings mode. If anyone has knowledge of this settings procedure, it would be good to share in this thread.

I have this exact problem on my '18 Touring L... If you drop the glove box and take it completely out (just pinch the 2 ends up top and it drops down) then remove the thin black cover where the cabin filter is and remove the filter it you can plainly see that umbrella door fluttering back and forth like its possessed with the engine off and nothing on. Not sure why it does that for so long after the car is off, there shouldn't be any juice to it for it to even do that, apparantly it is a hot lead. I just pulled the electric plug apart next to it feeding the juice and its silent now (For now) until I may need the heat or air I'll see how it performs disconnected soon.... If there is a fix or a remedy out there anybody please let me know. Thank you

 

Did you ever figure out what this could be? My van is now doing this

 

It's the blend door actuator. Cheap part but you have to take down the glove compartment box and it's to the left. Thers 3 bolts you have to get to kind of tight space.. Apparently these are faulty from the dealership and they keep clicking for a while even though the key is off and if you open a door it starts it up to for a little while. This is the fix I just did mine on my 18. I attached a picture below

 

Just left alone could this make it to where my van doesn’t want to start? Very randomly it’s like it decides to not start and I have to have it jumped off. But other times it starts just fine. I’ve had the battery checked and they said it is fine but in random places I am getting stranded without a car that will start

 

The blend doors making noise is in no way connected to the vehicle not starting.

When the vehicle will not start, does it try, or does it not even turn over? When your batteries were checked, did they disconnect the aux battery from the main by disconnecting the negative terminal. If not, the results are flawed. You may need to get them checked again.

What year is your vehicle? Maybe the fob batteries are failing.

If you can add your vehicle details to your forum signature it can help us help you going forward.

 

Replacing that part is exactly what I needed for this symptom as well.

For those doing it themselves in the future - make sure you are replacing the actuator that seems to be almost connected to the cabin air filter NOT the one that is connected to the central console (that's the ac/heating actuator and if you accidentally take it off and reinstall it incorrectly, you're stuck with heat or air and have repeat the process again 😢)

 

I just finished replacing mine. It is a tight space to work in. However, you do not have to operate blind. I found a direct line of sight when laying on my back and looking straight up under the dash by the floor vent. It was hard getting my hand in between everything else, but once I did this it went way smoother. Problem solved.

Also, I recall seeing some ask if this could impact anything else. It can impact your small battery that operates the auto start/stop feature of the van. It can lead to a reduced battery life for the small battery, which can then in turn start impacting your main battery.

 

Also, I recall seeing some ask if this could impact anything else. It can impact your small battery that operates the auto start/stop feature of the van. It can lead to a reduced battery life for the small battery, which can then in turn start impacting your main battery.

The only time the small aux battery is call upon for power is when the engine has stopped by the ESS. It supplies the power for fans, lights etc until the engine starts again. The blend door trying to cycle would be on the main battery power.

 

Fixed, but is failing again. NOT FIXED!!!
I replaced mine Oct. 2020 with a new factory actuator from the Chrysler dealership. See Post 74 in Pumping or Gear turning noise while parked and plugged in.

 

Please delete. My question was answered in other thread: Pumping or Gear turning noise while parked and plugged in.

 

It's this part that needs to be replaced (verify it works for your year, worked great in a 2018)

Amazon.com

Replacement is 'easy' if you can contort yourself under the dash. Because of the placement it's pretty much all done by feel. You (I) can see the part, and you can reach the part, but you can't do both at the same time. It's held in by two screws (might be three, but I think it was only two), remove the screws the part slides out.

Slide the new part into place and put the two screws back in. I think the entire operation for me was about 15- 20 minutes. It took longer to put the screws back in than anything else, simply because I couldn't see to align the holes.

The power coupling is just a quick release slide on/off - nothing to it.

 

Did you ever get this figured out? I have the same problem. I recently had to replace BOTH batteries on my 2018 with 79k miles. The sound is more frequent now than ever before.

 

See post 53 right above your post.

 

Gotcha. I can't speak for his, but it certainly cured mine. You'll know for sure if you stick your head down in the passenger footwell when the noise is happening. If it's the same thing then it will sound like it's coming from behind the glovebox (which is exactly where it is).

 

I am also experiencing this in my 2019 Pacifica. Did you ever get it fixed, and find out where the malfunction actually is?

 

 

I brought ours in and told them it already did this once and they replaced it but they claim it's not the actuator this time but something else and they opened a star case. They also claim they were told there were a few star cases opened for the same issue. I am starting to wonder if they just didn't want to replace it under my lifetime warranty(have 3 other things being done as well)